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As you know, “classic” is a broad term that covers many objects with sometimes very different looks. The Larousse dictionary defines it as something “in keeping with tradition.” Watchmaking, too, is built on established design conventions and technical features that help define and distinguish its major categories of timepieces.
Classic watches are no exception: they're firmly rooted in that tradition… Let us introduce you to them!
As its name suggests, a classic watch is a timepiece that follows the design conventions of traditional watchmaking. It doesn't aim to provoke or surprise. In other words, classic watches don't make waves: they take a deliberately conservative approach, with the primary goal of carrying on a watchmaking heritage.
Of course, not all classic watches look alike! They do, however, share a number of defining characteristics. Their cases generally have conventional shapes and sizes, while their dials and hands prioritize legibility, a core principle of traditional watchmaking.
The quintessential classic watch: the Lip Himalaya 35 mm
Their materials follow the same traditional approach. Cases are most often made from durable metals such as stainless steel, in a silver or gold tone, or solid gold. Straps are frequently made from genuine leather, though metal bracelets are also available.
Still, while watches described as classic share many traits, they don't all follow the same design philosophy. In fact, they can be divided into two distinct groups…
Our lifestyles, practical needs and tastes differ, so classic watches don't all follow a single style. In fact, they fall into two broad categories. Some prioritize versatility and the ability to suit almost any situation, while others favor elegance, restraint and understated style. Let's take a closer look!
“Versatile watches” may sound like a broad label, and it isn't used much in watchmaking. Still, it aptly describes watches designed for everyday wear that suit the vast majority of situations. These timepieces can take their owners from morning to night without ever looking out of place.
These watches appeal both to watch enthusiasts and to men and women simply looking for an attractive accessory they can wear every day. That's why most watch brands now offer at least one model of this kind. The most iconic example is undoubtedly the Rolex Datejust, whose adaptable style has made it a benchmark for versatile watches over the decades.
For those looking to explore more affordable options, brands such as Tissot, Seiko, Lip and March LAB also offer some compelling models.
Classic March LAB am69 watch (Source: March LAB website)
Look closely at these watches and you'll see that they're neither truly sporty nor strictly dressy. They often combine polished and brushed finishes, a subtle design choice that makes them more versatile. This tried-and-true approach lets you wear a versatile watch with a suit to the office or with casual clothes to the beach. That's exactly where its appeal lies!
Rolex Datejust ref. 116234 worn with a suit (Source: He Spoke Style)
Water resistance is another key consideration for this type of watch… Designed to go everywhere with their owners, including into the water, most offer water resistance to 100 meters (10 ATM or 10 bar). That rating means you can shower or swim in a pool or the sea without worrying about your watch.
Many of these models have metal bracelets for practicality and durability, while others use leather straps for a slightly different look. Either way, versatile watches are fairly conventional pieces that don't rely on extravagance to stand out. Their purpose is different: to suit most everyday situations and be comfortable to wear day after day.
That philosophy extends to their complications. When these watches have them, they're always useful in everyday life. The most common include the date complication and day-date complication, while higher-end models may feature a perpetual calendar complication.
Classic Tissot PR 100 watch with a chronograph complication (Source: This Watch Works)
Ultimately, so-called “versatile” watches aren't radical style statements. They're attractive, adaptable accessories designed to accompany men and women with elegance through (almost) every part of daily life. If you're looking for a classic watch that's especially easy to wear every day, this is the category to explore.
Often called “dress watches,” even by French-speaking collectors, these timepieces embrace their chic, sophisticated character. They have a distinct look that's easy to recognize at a glance. Key features include:
Among the watches that best represent this category are the Patek Philippe Calatrava and numerous Cartier models, including the Tank Louis (with its rectangular case), the Ceinture (with its octagonal case) and the Baignoire (with its oval case). They're not afraid to explore unusual case shapes!
Cartier Baignoire watch, circa 1960 (Source: The Keystone Watches)
This category also often includes what are known as “shaped watches.” Instead of a round case, these models have a rectangular, oval, square or even asymmetrical one. After all, who says an elegant watch has to be round?
Hamilton Ventura watch with an asymmetrical case (Source: Mr Montre)
And don't assume dress watches are necessarily expensive! Today, you can find beautiful models from Lip, Timex, Kelton, Tissot and Herbelin. These pieces don't try to dazzle. Instead, their delicate details, careful finishing and elegance embody the understated spirit of classic watchmaking.
That may be why many people think dress watches are only for formal occasions. But that's a misconception! Despite their refined, restrained look, these watches work in a wide variety of settings and can even pair with casual clothes, such as jeans and a simple T-shirt.
Vintage Patek Philippe Calatrava worn with a casual outfit (Source: Wind Vintage)
Keep in mind, however, that dress watches generally have limited water resistance, often rated at around 30 meters. Swimming or taking part in water activities while wearing one is therefore not recommended, as water could get inside.
When it comes to watch complications, dress watches have a clear goal: simplicity and restraint. “Less is more” suits them perfectly. They typically have two or three hands, and complications are rare. You may occasionally find a date display or chronograph, but these are exceptions, since they depart from the dress watch's focus on elegance and simplicity.
The answer might surprise you in a world where casual style increasingly wins out over dressing up… but yes, a classic watch is more relevant than ever today.
When you think about it, versatile watches are easy to wear every day, while dress watches add sophistication to any outfit, as long as you're comfortable wearing one even with very casual clothes. And don't worry: it may sound bold, but it absolutely works!
At first, wearing a dress watch with a very casual outfit might seem like a style misstep. Done well, though, it shows that you know how to bring together the style codes of two very different worlds.
There's no age requirement for wearing a classic watch, either. A young man, a mother or a grandfather can all wear one elegantly. After all, classic watches were the standard choice for everyday wear for a very long time.
Now that you know the nuances of so-called “classic” watches, we'll leave you with one final thought that we hope might change the way you see them…
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