0
Product added
✨ Save 10% on orders over 70 €* use code WELCOME
A precision instrument and an object of passion, the chronograph has captivated watch lovers for over two centuries. Born from a desire to capture the moment with absolute precision, it has been present at humanity's greatest milestones: sporting records, aeronautical feats, and space missions alike. Every press of its pusher tells a story, suspends time, and freezes a singular moment….
Chronographs have always caught your eye, and now you want to understand everything about these watches that are as beautiful as they are useful? You've come to the right place!
The Le Robert dictionary defines the "chronograph" as "a device that records durations." It is therefore an instrument designed to measure time over a given period. At this point, you're starting to get a sense of what a chronograph is - but be careful not to jump to conclusions!
Although these terms are often confused, in watchmaking, "chronograph" and "chronometer" are not synonyms. The similarity between the two words makes it an easy mistake to make…
We won't dwell further on this distinction here. Just remember that, whatever terms are used, all chronographs share the fundamental ability to time a specific event. If you'd like to learn more about the concept of the "chronometer," we invite you to check out our dedicated guide to mechanical and automatic watches, where you'll find everything you need to clear up any confusion.
Chronographs are useful across many fields, starting with sports, where they measure athletes' performances and ultimately separate competitors at the finish line. In disciplines like the Tour de France time trial, for example, a chronograph is indispensable - without one, determining the winner would simply be impossible.
They are also used in sports such as soccer and rugby, where timekeeping is essential for signaling halftime, tracking added time, or managing extra time. But the applications don't stop there…
Depending on their configuration and the functions they offer, chronographs can also be used to measure distances or take a patient's pulse. Some versions of these instruments can even calculate how far away a lightning strike occurred.
The chronograph is a watchmaking complication that proves useful across every field where precise timekeeping is critical. That's no doubt why it remains one of the most beloved watch functions of all time!
When you stop to think about it, it's remarkable just how much a chronograph can do, isn't it?
For a long time, history credited the invention of the chronograph to Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec, a French watchmaker at the court of Louis XVIII. He had received a commission from the king, who wanted a way to time horse races. In 1821, Rieussec unveiled his invention: the "chronographe-encreur" (ink chronograph). Designed to meet the king's needs, this device consisted of a case containing two graduated rotating discs onto which ink was deposited to record elapsed time.
Ink-marking chronograph by Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec, 1821 (Source: Europa Star)
What we should remember here is that Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec was the first to use the word "chronograph," a term derived from the Greek words "chronos" and "graphein," meaning "time" and "to write," respectively. A chronograph is therefore, quite literally, a tool that writes time!
The story of the chronograph might have started there - but a few years ago, we discovered that a man named "Louis Moinet" had invented, in 1816, a device bearing a striking resemblance to the chronograph watches we know today…
Seconds Counter by Louis Moinet, 1816 (Source: AutomotivPress)
Named the "Compteur de Tierces," this invention by Louis Moinet took the form of a pocket watch featuring 3 subdials and operated by a single pusher.
Movement of the Compteur de Tierces by Louis Moinet (Source: Louis Moinet)
Moinet's "Compteur de Tierces" stood out for its high-frequency movement, running at 30 Hz, which enabled timekeeping with extreme precision to 1/60th of a second. By comparison, a modern high-frequency chronograph typically operates at 36,000 vph (5 Hz) - a significantly lower frequency. This remarkable precision is largely due to the fact that the instrument was originally conceived for astronomical observations, a field that demands the highest level of accuracy imaginable!
Until 1880, pocket watches equipped with a chronograph complication were rare. From that point on, production increased, driving costs down and making them more accessible to the general public.
Lip pocket watch with chronograph complication, circa 1900 (Source: Invaluable)
In the United States, Waltham produced chronographs that evolved over time to become more practical. It's worth noting that the movements once developed by Waltham typically featured a simpler architecture than their Swiss Made counterparts.
But we were still far from the chronographs we know today. If you've read through our guide on the history of watches, you'll know that the first wristwatches only appeared at the beginning of the 20th century.
From that point on, certain brands staked their claim in this space. Several prestigious houses - including Longines, Lemania, Minerva, Helvetia, Breitling, and Gallet - built their reputations on the quality of their chronographs produced during the first half of the 20th century.
Longines was a true pioneer in this field, developing the caliber 13.33Z in 1913. This manual-winding mechanical movement featuring a chronograph complication measured just 29 mm in diameter and 6 mm in thickness - a remarkable technical achievement for its time.
Longines chronograph, caliber 13.33z (Source: ChronoVantage)
This caliber had the distinctive feature of being operated by a single pusher located on the watch's crown - a concept that would give rise to so-called "single-pusher" chronographs. Compact and elegant, these models would go on to become iconic.
Longines Chronograph, Caliber 13.33Z (Source: wrist icons)
In 1915, Gaston Breitling revolutionized the world of chronographs with a bold new innovation. He introduced a model featuring a central seconds hand, a 30-minute counter, and most importantly, an independent pusher. Now offset from the crown, this button marked a true turning point in chronograph design.
Breitling Transocean Chronograph 100th Anniversary Edition, 1915-2015 (Source: Passion Horlogère)
It was the height of the Art Deco era, and chronographs were taking on lines as modern as they were elegant. Case makers competed in ingenuity to offer innovative and captivating shapes that were both beautiful and functional.
Art Deco Style Heuer Chronograph, circa 1930 (Source: Experts Watches - eBay)
Single-pusher chronographs continued to dominate until the 1930s, before gradually giving way to models closer to those we know today, equipped with two pushers.
These new chronographs became very popular from the mid-20th century onward. A large number of models were fitted with the Landeron 48 caliber, a manual-winding mechanical movement that made it possible to create more affordable models. Produced from 1937 through the 1970s, this caliber was manufactured in over 3.5 million units.
Swiss chronograph, Landeron 48 movement (Source: Brussels Vintage Watches)
Many chronographs of that era proudly displayed the "Chronographe Suisse" inscription on their dials.
However, all these chronographs ran on manual-winding mechanical movements. It wasn't until the late 1960s that the very first automatic mechanical chronograph came to life.
It was Zenith that made the surprise announcement in 1969, at a press conference where the brand unveiled its new high-frequency automatic movement integrating a chronograph complication.
Zenith 3019 PHC automatic chronograph movement (Source: Clinique Horlogère)
This movement, named "3019 PHC," boasts impressive specifications: a diameter of 30 mm, a thickness of 6.5 mm, an operating frequency of 36,000 vph, a power reserve of 50 hours, and 31 jewels.
Some time later, this groundbreaking movement was renamed "El Primero" - which, in Spanish, literally means "The First." And it's under that very name that it is known today by the vast majority of enthusiasts!
The Zenith El Primero movement was even used in the Rolex Daytona from 1988 to 2000. These watches, often nicknamed the "Daytona Zenith," were fitted with the Rolex "Calibre 4030" movement - which was nothing more than a Zenith El Primero reworked by the Crown brand to meet its own specifications.
Rolex Daytona "Zenith" ref. 16520, 1997 (Source: 58 Facettes)
Lowering the operating frequency to 28,800 vph and removing the date complication were the most significant modifications made by Rolex to the El Primero caliber for its Daytona.
In 2017, Zenith unveiled a new caliber, the "El Primero 9004," which set precision records by timing events to 1/100th of a second. Exceptional, isn't it?
Today, chronographs powered by a meca-quartz movement are hugely popular! To discover who invented them, check out our dedicated guide to hybrid watches!
But let's rewind and talk about the impact of the chronograph in pop culture. The first thing to know is that this watchmaking complication is inseparable from the world of motorsport. And that has certainly been proven on the big screen…
In "Le Mans," a 1971 film centered on the legendary 24 Hours of Le Mans race, Steve McQueen wears a Heuer Monaco on his wrist. It's a chronograph watch with a square rather than round case.
Steve McQueen wearing a Heuer Monaco in Le Mans, 1971 (Source: Tag Heuer)
That's why many people believe that the man nicknamed "The King of Cool" wore a Heuer Monaco. But in reality, that's only half true. The legendary American actor did indeed wear that chronograph during the filming of Le Mans - however, he did not personally own it.
The chronograph watch has been featured in many other films. For example, in "Fear Over the City," a 1975 film, Jean-Paul Belmondo wears a Rolex Daytona 6263 with a black dial and light-colored subdials. This reference is nicknamed "Big Red" due to the "Daytona" text displayed in red above its 6 o'clock subdial. It's also worth noting that this watch was part of Bebel's personal collection.
Jean-Paul Belmondo wearing a Rolex Daytona 6263 in Peur sur la ville, 1975 (Source: Phi£ - Pinterest)
In "Once Upon a Time in Hollywood," Quentin Tarantino's film released in 2019, Brad Pitt sports a chronograph with a truly distinctive style. It's a Citizen Challenge Timer 67-9020, a model nicknamed "Bullhead" thanks to its unconventional configuration, featuring two pushers and a crown positioned at the top of the case.
Brad Pitt wearing a Citizen "Bullhead" in Once Upon a Time in Hollywood, 2019 (Source: LeCalibre)
Here are 3 examples of iconic films - past and present - in which the lead characters proudly wear a chronograph. In short, the watch we call the "chrono" is far from done capturing our imagination!
Today, most chronograph watches feature a configuration that includes a crown and two pushers on their right side. Their dial features subdials, often referred to as "registers" or "sub-dials." Finally, owing to the complication they house, these watches also feature a dedicated central hand and a graduated bezel.
It is precisely this combination of elements that sets them apart from more traditional watches and allows us to use them with ease. The whole system works as follows:
Chronograph Watch Configuration
As mentioned, some chronographs feature two or three subdials - and these are respectively known as "Bicompax" and "Tricompax."
Bicompax Chronograph vs Tricompax Chronograph
A Bi-compax chronograph (with two registers) can only time events up to 30 minutes to one hour, while a Tri-compax chronograph (with three registers) generally offers the ability to measure up to 12 hours. Quite something!
On a Bicompax chronograph, the registers are most commonly found at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock, while on a Tricompax chronograph, the registers are typically positioned along the lower portion of the dial at 3, 6, and 9 o'clock. There are also Tricompax models where the registers are grouped on the left side of the dial at 6, 9, and 12 o'clock. Other configurations exist as well, though they are less common.
Two Tricompax Chronographs in Two Different Configurations
Chronograph watches are considered complex timepieces. The movements of both mechanical and automatic models incorporate far more parts than those of simpler watches - such as a basic three-hand watch with a date.
Partially disassembled Valjoux 7750 movement (Source: The Naked Watchmaker)
To give you a sense of scale, an automatic movement with a chronograph complication typically contains between 200 and 300 parts. Some chronograph watches even feature nearly fifty jewels in their movement. Pretty incredible, right?
Another defining feature of chronographs is their graduated bezel. This is essentially a measurement scale that can appear either on the periphery of the dial or on a dedicated external bezel fitted to the case.
This bezel can feature a variety of markings, but the "Tachymeter" is by far the most common.
Graduated up to 1,000 units, the tachymeter scale lets you calculate how many times you can complete a given action within one hour. Let's make this concrete with an example. If you're out for a run and warming up by circling a building, you can start the chronograph as you set off, lap the building, and stop it when you return to your starting point.
Tachymeter Bezel Marking at 36 Seconds
If it took you 36 seconds to complete one lap around the building, the tachymeter reads "100."
This value simply means that, if you keep up that pace (without ever stopping), you could complete 100 laps around the building in 1 hour. Let's verify: 36 seconds x 100 = 3,600 seconds - and indeed, there are exactly 3,600 seconds in 1 hour. The math checks out!
It's worth knowing that chronographs designed for other specific uses also exist. These are rarer models that may feature a different scale, such as a telemeter or a pulsometer.
The telemetric scale calculates the distance between you and a distant observed event using the speed of sound. This function was widely used by soldiers during both World Wars - the telemeter allowed combatants to determine with reasonable accuracy how far away enemy forces were located.
The telemeter scale is also positioned around the perimeter of the watch dial. In terms of form, it is actually quite similar to the tachymeter scale, with one key difference… Its graduation is not expressed in units but rather in kilometers, ranging from 1 to 20 km.
So how do you use a chronograph with a telemeter? Here again, let's use a concrete example - lightning. On a stormy day, look out your window and start the telemeter the moment you see lightning in the distance. Let the watch run, then stop the telemeter when you hear the sound of the thunderclap. Then read the telemeter scale.
Telemetric bezel marking at 36 seconds
If the chronograph hand stopped at 36 seconds, it means the lightning bolt you just observed struck 12 kilometers away.
As you might expect, the "pulsometer" is a function designed for physicians. Rarer than the tachymeter and the telemeter, it allows the wearer to take a patient's pulse.
The pulsometer scale can be graduated for 10, 15, or 30 beats, making it easy to measure a person's heart rate at a glance.
Using a pulsometer works as follows: start the chronograph on the first pulse and stop it on the last. On a watch graduated for 10 beats, you will need to count 10 pulses before stopping the chronograph. On a watch graduated for 30 beats, you will need to go all the way to 30 pulses. Simple enough! Once you're done, simply observe where the watch's hand has stopped on the pulsometer scale and read the indicated value.
Pulsometer Bezel Marking at 36 Seconds
If your pulsometer bezel is graduated for 30 beats and you counted 30 beats in 36 seconds, the heart rate being measured is 50 beats per minute.
Some chronograph watches even combine 2 measurement scales. So don't be surprised if you come across a watch equipped with both a tachymeter and a telemeter - it's entirely possible.
Whether packed with complications or stripped back to the essentials, chronographs always have that certain something that draws the eye!
The "Flyback," also known as "retour en vol," is an additional function found on select chronograph watches designed for specific uses. Invented by Longines in the 1930s, it was conceived for aviation. It allows a pilot who has already started the chronograph to stop it, reset it, and restart it with a single press of one button (typically the pusher at 4 o'clock). It's essentially a 3-in-1 function…
Longines chronograph caliber 13Zn with Flyback function, circa 1930 (Source: Phillips)
The Flyback delivers a genuine time-saving advantage, allowing pilots to perform precise calculations while staying fully focused at the controls of their aircraft.
The Rattrapante is an entirely different function! It allows you to time two events that start simultaneously but end at different moments. Invented by Louis-Frédéric Perrelet (the founder of Perrelet watches) in 1928, it is today found in only a handful of chronographs.
A split-seconds chronograph has the distinctive feature of being equipped with not one but two central seconds hands. It's worth noting that when the chronograph is reset, it is nearly impossible to tell one hand from the other, as they are perfectly superimposed and generally the same size.
Breitling Navitimer Chronograph with Split-Seconds Function (Source: LUXUO)
This function proves invaluable in many sporting competitions, such as relay racing. In that specific case, you start the chronograph by pressing a pusher, and both hands set off simultaneously. When the first runner passes the baton to the second, you press the pusher again. At that moment, one of the two chronograph seconds hands stops while the other keeps running. The Split-Seconds function thus makes it possible to record the exact time of each runner!
Chronographs have that special magic that makes them so beloved. They're useful across countless fields, carry a distinctly sporty aesthetic, and suit every occasion. From Jean-Paul Belmondo to Paul Newman, Brad Pitt to Steve McQueen - many of cinema's greatest stars, past and present, have embraced this one-of-a-kind watch that shows no signs of losing its allure!
Share :