0
Product added
🔥 Get an extra 5% off with code FLASH5*
Wristwatches didn't appear overnight; they are the result of a long, very long watchmaking tradition. If the words "pocket watch" or "sundial" ring a bell, you already know part of the story, but many other timekeeping instruments were invented long before the wristwatch came along.
In this guide, you'll discover other lesser-known tools, their history, and their characteristics. And as you'll see, every one of them showcases remarkable ingenuity given the era in which they were invented.
So don't wait, dive into the history of watchmaking!
Let's start at the very beginning: did you know that the earliest traces of timekeeping date back to the Neolithic period? It was around 3500 BC that sundials first appeared across many civilizations.
Sundial
Though imprecise and directly dependent on weather conditions, these rudimentary devices allowed the men and women of the time to organize their communal lives.
Later, around -1 400 av J.C., the clepsydra marked a first major evolution. Also known as a "water clock," this tool offered an effective solution to the technical limitations of sundials. The clepsydra works in any weather - even without the sun!
Clepsydra Sketch
Shaped like a water hourglass, it was used by several great civilizations to organize their religious ceremonies. Fun fact: did you know that clepsydras are still used today to time the games on Fort Boyard? They may not look exactly like the ancient originals, but they still rely on the flow of water to measure passing time. Worth noting too: the clepsydra is a far less precise timekeeping tool than the hourglass, which is actually a more recent invention.
But what about mechanical watchmaking - the kind that relies on an intricate system of interlocking parts and gears?
It wasn't until the 13th century that the first mechanical clocks arrived in Europe. Powered by a system of suspended weights, these clocks were by no means portable and were reserved exclusively for the elite.
During this period, timekeeping became increasingly precise and was primarily done in public squares, often centered around cathedrals and other grand buildings.
Salisbury Cathedral Medieval Clock, 1386 (Source: Wikipedia)
History buffs will note that one of the very first mechanical clocks in Europe appeared in 1386, in England, and still stands today at Salisbury Cathedral. If you're ever in the area, it's well worth a visit!
We're still in Europe, but this time in the 15th century, as watchmaking gradually miniaturized. Clocks began to become accessible to the public, and it was around 1475 and 1480 that the first forms of portable watches appeared. These models remained fairly bulky and were extremely expensive - true luxury objects reserved for aristocrats and the wealthiest members of society.
That said, while these timepieces were genuine technical achievements, don't assume they were particularly accurate. With a single hand, these early models had an unfortunate tendency to drift significantly - meaning that while some might run several hours fast, others could lag considerably, all within the space of a single day. Crafted from precious metals such as gold or silver, these pocket watches were often adorned with gemstones and catered to a distinctly affluent clientele.
Portable horology continued its race toward miniaturization, and it was then that truly everyday wearable models began to appear.
Pomander Watch Peter Henlein, 1505 (Source: Wikipedia)
Peter Henlein, a locksmith and watchmaker in the city of Nuremberg, had the genius to create, in 1505, an exceptionally compact watch for its time. Known as the "Pomander watch," "PHN 1505," or simply "Watch 1505," it stands as a remarkable technical achievement for the era.
A few years later, Peter Henlein introduced a new watch that would come to be nicknamed the "Nuremberg Egg" (Nuremberg Egg), owing to its oval shape.
Their creations were worn around the necks of notable figures like true jewels, drawing the curious gaze of onlookers.
We are in the 16th century, and the cradle of European watchmaking was located in Germany - specifically in the cities of Augsburg and Nuremberg.
Pocket Watch, 16th Century (Source: izi TRAVEL)
It was there that the first pocket watches were created - slim enough in profile to slide comfortably into a vest pocket. But that wouldn't last: gradually, Europe's watchmaking heart migrated toward Geneva and London, cities that attracted a growing number of master watchmakers over the years.
The 18th century would be defined by a major innovation: one developed by British carpenter and self-taught watchmaker George Graham. He set out to tackle one of the greatest challenges of his time - errors in longitude calculation, which were often responsible for serious navigation disasters at sea.
To understand how critical it was to keep accurate time at sea, consider this: just a few seconds' drift in timekeeping could have a direct impact on sailors' lives. In the mildest cases, it caused navigation errors - but it sometimes also led to shipwrecks.
Through its "Board of Longitude" program, the British government of the time even offered a reward of £20,000 to anyone who could find a solution to the longitude calculation problems faced by navigators. It was then that, in 1761, Graham's marine chronometer arrived.
A. Lange & Söhne Marine Chronometer
This revolutionary instrument delivered unparalleled precision, losing just 5 seconds over 6 months - remarkable! As surprising as it may seem, George Graham had to fight hard to get his invention recognized.
It was with industrialization and the modern era that the first truly affordable pocket watches appeared. Increasingly sophisticated machine tools allowed manufacturers to save valuable time and produce ever more reliable timepieces. In 1867, German-born watchmaker Georges-Frédéric Roskopf unveiled a pocket watch sold for the modest sum of 20 francs.
Roskopf Pocket Watch Known as "La Prolétaire" (Source: Wikipedia)
With its unique mechanism featuring a limited number of parts (57 versus 200 in standard models), this "workers'" watch - also known as "la Prolétaire" - made watchmaking accessible to the masses.
Men and women of the era wore pocket watches, but as early as the beginning of the 19th century, innovations began to emerge. For example, in 1810, Abraham-Louis Breguet created for Caroline Murat, then Queen of Naples, what would prove to be the first wristwatch in history.
Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, by François Gérard or Jean-Baptiste Regnault, between 1810 and 1812 (Source: Wikipedia)
During the same era, railroads were also expanding at a breathtaking pace, promising passengers fast travel over long distances. But a problem emerged: so many different local time zones existed that the time could vary from one village to the next. To address this, England adopted a single standard time for the entire country in 1847, based on the time in its capital, London. The world would have to wait for the Rome Congress of 1883 to be officially divided into distinct time zones. Within just one year, 95% of cities with more than 10,000 inhabitants had adopted the new system.
Adopting a universal time standard also had the added benefit of streamlining commercial transactions during the industrial era. Trade between nations became synchronized, and the movement of goods grew easier.
The 20th century was a period of sweeping change in watchmaking - starting with how people wore their watches. At the very beginning of the era, pocket watches were the norm, when aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont told his friend Louis Cartier how difficult it was to check his pocket watch while at the controls of his aircraft.
Portrait of Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1092 (Source: Wikipedia)
To provide him with a practical solution, the latter developed (with the help of Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex) a watch designed to be worn not in a jacket pocket, but directly on the wrist during his flying sessions.
Cartier Santos Dumont 1904 Watch (Source: The Watch Observer Ouest France)
But this elegant little object strapped to the wrist of the Franco-Brazilian aviator quickly attracted attention, and Cartier decided to bring it to market in 1911 to meet the demand of the time. The birth of this first mass-market wristwatch marked the beginning of the decline of the pocket watch.
That said, don't assume the wristwatch caught on overnight. Initially perceived as feminine, it took some time to win over men at the turn of the century. It was the tragic event of World War I that suddenly shifted habits and tastes.
As you can easily imagine, soldiers sent to the front in 1914 couldn't always afford to pull a pocket watch out of their coat during combat. It was for purely practical reasons that they began wearing their watches on the wrist.
At that time, it was not uncommon for women to give their small pocket watches to their husbands heading off to war. These timepieces were then sent to the jewelers and watchmakers of the era, who would solder fixed lug horns onto them so that a bracelet could be attached at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions (with the crown at 12 o'clock).
Converted 800/1000 Solid Silver Pocket Watches
Once strapped to the wrist, these watches had to be read sideways - much like the driver watches worn by racing car pilots. That's precisely how these discreet pocket watches, originally made for women, ended up on the wrists of soldiers. For personal beliefs - and to carry a lucky charm - many soldiers chose to mount a tiny religious medal onto one of their watch's lugs.
Often crafted in precious materials such as 800/1000 silver or solid gold, these watches - with cases around 30mm in diameter - featured enamel dials. In addition, intricate engravings adorned their cases.
The most technical models of the era were even fitted with a metal grid to prevent their mineral glass from shattering when struck by a projectile - because yes, the timepieces of that period were protected by mineral glass, not plexiglass.
In watchmaking, much like in fashion, jewelry, or interior design, every era has had its own distinct style - and its own technology. Let's take a detailed look at how watch design and craftsmanship evolved from the early 20th century to the present day.
In the 1920s, watches designed to be worn on the wrist began appearing on the market. Crafted in solid silver, gold, nickel-chrome, or gold plate, they typically featured a cushion-shaped case housing a circular dial at its center.
Tribaudeau "Trib" Watch, 800/1000 Solid Silver Case
These timepieces feature a small seconds display, blued hands, and were sometimes even painted with radium - a radioactive luminescent material discovered by Pierre and Marie Curie that reached peak popularity during the Roaring Twenties.
At the time, Rolex - already a master of marketing - found a clever way to stand out. In 1927, just a year after launching its first "Oyster" with a waterproof crown, the brand decided to partner with a young English swimmer, Mercedes Gleitze.
Portrait of English Swimmer Mercedes Gleitze (Source: Wikipedia)
By swimming the English Channel with a Rolex strapped to her wrist - still running perfectly upon arrival - she helped build the Rolex legend. And to silence the skeptics of the day, Rolex went so far as to display fully submerged Oyster watches in aquariums at its key points of sale.
Rolex Oyster Extra Prima Watch (Source: Petit Genève)
While the Rolex Oyster was the first water-resistant - or "water proof" - watch brought to market, the first timepiece considered truly waterproof would appear a few years later…
Also during the 1920s, watchmakers turned their focus to a shock-absorbing system that would help watches withstand the bumps of daily life. Made up of about ten components, this tiny 2mm mechanism was named "Incabloc" - a name that likely rings a bell for many of you.
Incabloc Shock Absorber Diagram (Source: Official Incabloc Website)
Once hailed as "more precious than gold by weight," this system was seen as a minor revolution in the watch world. The press covered it extensively, and the general public came to associate Incabloc with quality watchmaking.
Incabloc Advertisement in London (Source: Monochrome Watches)
At the time, advertisements ran even on London's iconic red double-decker buses!
The 1930s gave birth to true watchmaking icons. The Lip T18, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, and the Omega Marine… all feature rectangular cases and remain highly sought after by vintage enthusiasts to this day.
Omega Marine, 1932 (Source: Official Omega Website)
Released in 1932, the last on the list is even considered the very first waterproof watch in history. A true revolution for its time, its double-case system allowed it to withstand immersion down to 135 meters.
The 1930s also saw a brand-new material enter the market for case manufacturing. At the time, it wasn't yet called stainless steel - instead, it was known as "rust-proof" steel, "Staybrite," or "Everbright."
Staybrite Steel Case Back of a Lip "T18"
So why was this a breakthrough? To understand, you need to put yourself in the context of the 1930s. At that time, watches were either made from ultra-durable precious metals or from base metals coated with a shiny plating layer - and, as you can easily imagine, that coating's durability was quite limited.
For their part, these new materials promised to deliver watches that were simultaneously robust, gleaming, and untarnishable - without relying on precious metals. In fact, some advertising campaigns of the era promoting these steels even touted their "beautiful platinum color."
Staybrite, for example, is a clever alloy made up of a large proportion of steel blended with small amounts of nickel and chromium.
Longines Staybrite Steel Case Chronograph, 1940 (Source: Christies)
Some of the finest brands of the era used these new materials to equip their high-end sports watches. This is how several Longines, Angelus, Tavannes, Omega, and Alpina chronographs in Staybrite came to see the light of day.
The 1950s gave rise to ultra-elegant watches that sometimes embraced extravagant details - such as "cow horn" lugs or original triangular cases. Watches from the early '50s also very commonly featured a small seconds display: a small, independent counter used solely to show the seconds.
Lip R25 Steel Watch with "Cow Horns", 1950
The 1960s, on the other hand, were quite different. They were defined by minimalist styles that could be described as more restrained. In fact, sixties watches were so understated that they still look remarkably contemporary today.
Their modern architecture - often built on automatic movements - makes them perfectly suited for everyday wear, as long as you treat them with a little care. In short, they're truly timeless.
Festina Incabloc and Juvenia Mechanical Watches, 1960s
It's worth noting that during this period, most watches were powered by manual-winding mechanical movements. What's more, when fitted with the famous shock absorber mentioned earlier, timepieces would display the word "Incabloc" on their dial - typically at 6 o'clock.
It was at the end of the 1960s that Japanese company Seiko unveiled a very special watch: the Seiko Quartz Astron. Battery-powered and released on Christmas Day 1969, it was the world's first quartz watch. Its promise? To be ultra-precise and robust - all without ever requiring a trip to a watchmaker for servicing.
Seiko Quartz Astron, 1969 (Source: Wikipedia)
The Quartz Astron required very little attention - just the occasional battery change.
The 1970s marked a major turning point in the watchmaking world. The era was defined by bold design risks. Automatic watches of the time grew thicker and embraced a sport-chic style that sometimes verged on the futuristic.
Seiko Credor Locomotive, 1979 (Source: Seiko Design)
They stood out from the crowd, and their bold originality may well have been a response to the quartz watch tsunami they were trying to resist.
In the 1970s, watches powered by mechanical movements were gradually abandoned by men and women alike. They had acquired a dated image, and the launch of the world's first digital watch by Pulsar in 1972 - the P1 - and the Casiotron by Casio in 1974 (the first LCD watch) did nothing to help matters. This was the height of what became known as the "quartz crisis."
Pulsar P1, 1972 (Source: Revolution Watch)
At that point, Japanese and American firms were flooding the European market with affordable timepieces that were winning over an ever-growing audience.
In the 1980s, analog-display watches took full advantage of quartz technology by adopting a slim profile and minimalist design synonymous with elegance. At the same time, the digital watch was gaining ground. Propelled by Japanese brands like Casio, Seiko, Citizen, Pulsar, and Orient, it quickly won over a new audience. Its LCD screen (liquid crystal display) and low price point played a major role in its widespread adoption.
Casio CFX-200 Digital Watch, 1983 (Source: Official Casio Website)
On top of that, some digital watches offered advanced features such as a 1/100-second chronograph, an audible alarm, a calculator, or even solar panel charging. In short, plenty of advantages working in their favor.
On the design front, analog watches began embracing a two-tone style - sometimes written as "bi-ton" or "two tone." This trend, built on the pairing of stainless steel with yellow gold or gold-plated elements, was pioneered by the Cartier Santos (not to be confused with the Cartier Santos Dumont). Released at the very end of the 1970s, this watch became a true bestseller throughout the 1980s.
Two-tone Cartier Santos in gold and steel (Source: George Cramer / Revolution Watch)
To stand out from the crowd, some houses like TAG Heuer pushed bold, futuristic designs. The S/el and the brand's various titanium watches are prime examples of that willingness to take creative risks.
But the quartz crisis had already taken a serious toll on Swiss brands. If you had to remember just two numbers, these would be them: before the quartz crisis, Swiss brands held a 50% market share. The arrival of Japanese quartz watches would slash that share to just 5% - in the space of just a few years.
It is Nicolas Hayek who is credited with rescuing the Swiss watchmaking industry.
Nicolas G. Hayek, 1928-2010 (Source: Official Omega Website)
In 1983, he founded Swatch with a clear vision: to create watches labeled "Swiss Made" that combined affordability, creative design, and quality craftsmanship.
This winning formula let him capitalize on the prestigious reputation of Swiss watches while taking on Japanese brands head-to-head at their own price point.
Swatch GB101, 1983 (Source: Wikipedia)
Swatch remains one of the key players in the watchmaking world - and more than just a brand, it is today a full-fledged group that owns some of the most prestigious luxury watch houses in the world.
While several Swatch models were released with automatic movements over the years, it took until the early 21st century for the general public to rediscover its love for mechanical watches.
In watchmaking, the 1990s were defined by the powerful comeback of German watch brands.
This event, following the fall of the Berlin Wall, gave a major boost to five watchmaking houses whose names will sound very familiar: NOMOS Glashütte, Mühle Glashütte, Union Glashütte, Glashütte Original, and A. Lange & Söhne.
The 1990s were also defined by the emergence of a rather distinctive type of piece: oversized luxury watches.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 25721ST, 1993 (Source: Official Audemars Piguet Website)
With its Royal Oak Offshore launched in 1993, Audemars Piguet - eager to attract a younger audience - was one of the first manufactures to lead the way.
On the dress watch side, the most prestigious brands were reclaiming the territory of grand complications. In 1989, an ultra-complex pocket watch was even unveiled: the Patek Philippe Calibre 89.
Patek Philippe Calibre 89, 1989 (Source: Watches & Culture Forum)
This XXL pocket watch - conceived to celebrate the brand's 150th anniversary - was considered the most complicated creation ever produced by the house. Entry-level watches would soon seize on the grand complications trend, attempting to offer accessible alternatives by playing the quartz card.
As a result, quartz watches pairing a calendar with a moon phase function began appearing in many a display window.
In terms of design, watches of the decade also stood out for their often very fine and elegant details. Looking at these watches through a modern lens, you often get the strange impression that the indices, hands, and markings are undersized. And don't assume this is simply due to the larger cases of the era - that same feeling appears even with the most compact pieces.
Jean Lassale Thalassa 7F98 018 (Source: Watch Spare)
This very distinctive style, rarely seen today, is part of what makes 1990s watches so charming.
In the 2000s, Swiss watch houses decided to position themselves in the high-end and sometimes even luxury segment. Their names once again captured the imagination of enthusiasts from every corner of the globe, and that's how they gradually won back their market share.
Longines Dolce Vita Advertisement (Source: Galerie 1 2 3)
While dress watches of the era were typically slim, quartz-powered, and offered in modest diameters - all in the name of elegance - sports watches followed an entirely different design philosophy.
To get a sense of this, simply look at the specifications of dive watches and other chronographs from the 2000s.
Breitling Bentley Motors T A25363, 2008 (Source: Watchfinder & Co.)
With diameters sometimes well exceeding 45mm, these pieces banked on an XXL case size to attract the affluent clientele of the day. Many brands followed the trend, but Breitling, Panerai, and Hublot are perhaps the most representative.
Throughout the 2010s, reissues took center stage. These watches - often from major brands - followed a distinctive philosophy: blending vintage aesthetics with next-generation materials such as stainless steel or ceramic.
At this point, vintage began to captivate the general public - and watch brands took notice. More and more of them started launching entire collections of timepieces inspired by pieces from their own archives.
Tudor Heritage Black Bay, 2012 (Source: La Cote des Montres)
Vintage aesthetics can be a powerful springboard for new ideas. The Tudor Black Bay, launched in 2012, is a perfect example. With its matte black dial, gold Snowflake hands, and off-white luminescent material, it drew from the past to forge its own DNA.
A few years later, in April 2015, the first Apple Watch - also known as "Series 0" - was released.
Apple Watch "Series 0", 2015 (Source: Les Rhabilleurs)
First pitched as a smartphone extension, this entirely new kind of device put Apple at the forefront of the smartwatch revolution. Text messages and GPS directions could now be read right from the wrist.
While the 2020s still pay homage to vintage-style watches - particularly through reissues - the most sought-after references among enthusiasts share one defining characteristic: their relatively small case diameter. Indeed, many of the watches coming to market feature cases of 37mm, 35mm, or even 33mm.
Nothing remotely comparable to what was being done in the early 2000s!
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Spider Black 35011
We've reached a moment in history where it's possible to find watches that share the design and dimensions of vintage pieces while using durable modern materials and manufacturing processes. These references - blending the best of both worlds - are highly prized by certain collectors who can enjoy a vintage aesthetic without the hassle.
From sundials to today's watches - by way of the clepsydra, the first clocks, marine chronometers, and pocket watches - you now have a solid grasp of watchmaking history. So what will the next few decades look like?
Share :
Official European Union notice on your rights in the event of a product's lack of conformity.
