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A necklace at 15 € and a bracelet at 150 € - both labeled "silver." Yet behind that word lie very different realities in terms of composition, durability, and true value. Price alone isn't enough to tell a quality jewelry piece from one that will tarnish within weeks. To shop with confidence, you need to know how to read the right signs: the hallmark, the finish, the declared composition… This guide gives you the concrete benchmarks to see things clearly, whether you're shopping in a physical store or online.
Before assessing the quality of a jewelry piece, you first need to know what type of silver it's made from. These four categories differ significantly in value and long-term behavior.
925 silver, also known as "sterling silver," is composed of 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% copper. This ratio is no accident - 100% pure silver is too malleable to be shaped into durable jewelry. The addition of copper gives it the necessary hardness while preserving its characteristic luster.
An important note for sensitive skin: the standard alloy for 925 silver contains no nickel. Some less rigorous manufacturers substitute nickel for copper to cut costs, which can cause skin reactions. A quality 925 silver jewelry piece explicitly lists "copper" as the alloying metal, or at least guarantees the absence of nickel. Note that jewelry sold in Europe must comply with strict regulations, particularly regarding nickel release, to minimize the risk of allergies.
It's the international reference standard! A 925 silver jewelry piece is identified by its hallmark (a mark engraved directly into the metal) and is the foundation of any serious purchase.
Rhodium-plated silver is sterling silver coated with a thin layer of rhodium, a precious metal belonging to the platinum family. This surface treatment offers two benefits: it slows the natural oxidation of silver and gives the jewelry a brilliant whiteness close to that of white gold.
This is not an inferior category! A rhodium-plated silver jewelry piece is solid 925 silver at its core - rhodium is a finish, not a substitute. The layer may wear over time and require re-treatment by a jeweler.
Vermeil is 925 sterling silver coated with a layer of gold by electrolysis. It is a precisely regulated category in France: the base must be solid silver, and the gold layer must reach a minimum of 5 microns at a purity of 750/1000 (18 carats). Vermeil jewelry sometimes bears a "V" engraving in the metal.
Vermeil offers the best of both worlds: the solid foundation of 925 silver and the look of gold. Its lifespan depends on the thickness of the plating and wearing conditions. The gold layer may wear at friction points, but a jeweler can renew it.
The term "gold-toned silver" or "gold tone," on the other hand, meets no specific regulatory standard. It can refer to quality vermeil or to a silver base coated with an extremely thin layer of gold just a few tenths of a micron thick. Caution is advised…
Silver-plated metal, or "silver-toned metal," is an entirely different category! A base metal (brass, zinc, steel) is coated by electrolysis with a layer of pure silver. The result looks like silver jewelry, but has neither its durability nor its value.
In France, regulations set a minimum thickness of 10 microns and a silver purity of at least 500/1000 to legally use the terms "silver-plated metal" or "silver-plated." Below this threshold, the manufacturer cannot legally use these terms - the result is merely a superficial deposit with no guarantee.
The surface layer inevitably wears down over time, revealing the base metal beneath. It's not a bad option for pieces worn occasionally and on a budget - as long as you're fully aware of that at the time of purchase.
A hallmark is an official mark engraved on the jewelry, certifying its precious metal composition. It's the first thing to check and the most reliable.
In France, the sale of precious metal jewelry is regulated by Customs. Any silver article weighing more than 30 grams must bear two hallmarks: the maker's or importer's mark, and the title hallmark (also called the "guarantee hallmark"), which certifies the precious metal content.
For jewelry under 30 grams (which covers the vast majority of rings, pendants, and earrings), hallmarking is not legally required in France, but reputable manufacturers apply it as standard practice.
The French guarantee hallmark for silver depicts a Minerva head - the Roman goddess of wisdom - used since 1838. Be aware: while this hallmark generally certifies a fineness of 925, it can also indicate an 800-fineness jewelry piece (if the hallmark includes the number "2"). A jewelry piece bearing the Minerva head may therefore be only 80% silver. To confirm a 925 fineness, look for the number "925" itself. Note that jewelry made from 800-fineness silver is often stamped with a crab hallmark.
For jewelry imported from outside the European Union, French Customs require an importer's hallmark (oval in shape) to be affixed before the item goes on sale. It is often the number "925" (or ".925" or "S925") engraved directly into the metal in place of the French hallmark.
A 10× loupe is enough to read a hallmark. The edges of an authentic hallmark, known as the "listel," are sharp and even. A blurry or imprecise strike is worth questioning.
The hallmark certifies the material. The finish reveals the quality of the craftsmanship. A 925 silver jewelry piece can be impeccably crafted or sloppily made - a visual inspection makes all the difference.
These tests are practical indicators, useful for checking a secondhand or unverified jewelry piece. They are no substitute for a professional assessment of valuable items.
Silver is not magnetic. If a magnet is attracted to the jewelry, the base metal is likely iron, steel, or nickel. Keep in mind: some non-magnetic metals (brass, zinc) can also serve as the base for plated jewelry, so the absence of attraction alone is not sufficient to confirm solid silver.
Silver has the highest thermal conductivity of all metals. Place an ice cube on the jewelry: if it melts faster than it would on your hand, that's a good sign. This test works best on flat surfaces (a silver bar or tray) and is less effective on small pieces.
Rub the jewelry with a clean, soft cloth. Light black marks on the fabric are normal and actually revealing: that's natural silver sulfide being deposited. This is actually a misconception worth reversing! A solid silver jewelry piece that tarnishes or darkens slightly over time is not defective - on the contrary, it's proof of its real precious metal content. Silver-plated jewelry, on the other hand, reacts differently depending on the base metal and does not produce this characteristic residue.
This is the most straightforward test. Look for the hallmark on the inside of the jewelry (the inner band of a ring, the clasp of a chain, the back of a pendant). "925," "Sterling," "Ster," or the Minerva head are the marks to look for. The complete absence of a hallmark is a warning sign that should not be ignored.
| I'm looking for | I prioritize | I pay attention to |
|---|---|---|
| A Lasting Jewelry Piece - to Care for and Pass Down | Sterling Silver 925 | The Presence of the 925 Hallmark or Minerva Head |
| A Brilliant Jewelry Piece That Resists Daily Oxidation | Rhodium-Plated Silver | Verify That the Base Is 925 Silver |
| A Gold-Toned Jewelry Piece With a Solid, Durable Base | Vermeil (925 Silver + 750/1000 Gold) | The Presence of the "V" Hallmark Engraved in the Metal |
| A Trendy Piece on a Budget, Worn for an Evening Out | Silver-Plated | The Limited Lifespan of the Surface Layer |
| Jewelry for Sensitive Skin | 925 Silver or Vermeil | Avoiding Nickel-Based Alloys |
Choosing quality silver jewelry starts with knowing who you're buying from. At Ocarat, every silver piece is selected from official brand collections, with free delivery in metropolitan France and Belgium, 4-installment payment with no fees, and 30 days to change your mind.
→ Precious Metals Guide · Silver Guide · Metal Treatment Guide
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