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The intention is clear - and so, often, are the hesitations. A piece of genuine gold jewelry is made to be worn for years, sometimes decades, and its quality is apparent from the very first look. Before you buy, three questions almost always come up: which gold grade to choose, which color, and which type of piece for your intended use. This guide answers each in turn, with concrete benchmarks to help you get it right the first time.
The benchmark fineness in French jewelry is 750‰ (18 karats): the piece contains 750 parts pure gold per 1,000 - that's 75%. The rest is made up of alloying metals (silver, copper, palladium depending on the color) that adjust hardness and hue. This is the standard quality of leading jewelry houses and the best compromise between purity and durability for a piece worn regularly.
375‰ (9 karats, meaning 37.5% pure gold) is legally permitted for sale in France but remains a minority on the French market. The color is slightly less warm, and long-term durability is lower. This fineness is more common in the UK and Northern Europe. Over time, 375‰ gold can show subtle color shifts - the alloy contains a higher proportion of copper and silver, which can gradually alter the surface appearance. This effect remains subtle but is more noticeable than with 750‰, particularly with everyday wear and regular contact with water or perspiration.
Pure gold at 999‰ (24 karats) is virtually never used in wearable jewelry: it's too soft and scratches and deforms with everyday use.
In France, any solid gold jewelry piece weighing more than 3 grams sold by a professional retailer must bear an official guarantee hallmark stamped by the guarantee offices (customs administration).
For 750/1000 gold (18 karats), this hallmark is the eagle's head - a figure engraved into the piece, most often on the clasp, the shank of a gold ring, or the inside of a bangle. If no hallmark is visible, ask for an invoice explicitly stating the fineness in thousandths (750‰) and the metal.
The color of gold has nothing to do with its purity - it depends on the metals added to the alloy. A 750/1000 gold (18-karat) jewelry piece can be yellow, white, or rose: in all three cases, it contains 75% pure gold.
Yellow Gold. A classic alloy of gold, silver, and copper. This is the metal's natural color - the one that ages most gracefully without any special care. No coating covers the alloy; what you see is the metal itself.
White Gold. An alloy of gold and palladium (nickel, which can cause allergic reactions, has largely been phased out by the industry). White gold jewelry is typically rhodium-plated - a thin layer of rhodium applied to the surface to enhance its bright, silvery-white shine. This plating gradually wears away over time, allowing the slightly yellowish tones of the underlying alloy to show through. A jeweler can restore the original look with a rhodium bath - generally every two to five years depending on how often it's worn. Expect to pay between 30 and 80 € depending on the piece and the jeweler.
Rose Gold. A copper-enriched alloy that produces a pink hue whose intensity varies with the copper content. More stable than white gold over time - no rhodium plating needed, the color stays consistent without any upkeep.
For a first everyday jewelry piece, yellow gold and rose gold are the lowest-maintenance options. White gold offers a more contemporary look and pairs beautifully with white stones (diamond, topaz, white quartz), but it does require periodic upkeep over the long term.
The type of piece shapes the budget - and your daily relationship with it. It's worth clarifying this before making a choice.
A gold chain necklace or a fine chain in gold is the most versatile starting point: understated, durable when chosen well, and compatible with almost any outfit. A gold bangle or a pair of fine hoop earrings tick the same boxes.
For jewelry worn non-stop - in the shower, during sports, at work - opt for simple forms with no fragile elements: no dense pavé, no delicate-set fine stones that could work loose. 750/1000 gold (18 karats) has no issues with water or perspiration, but some finishes hold up better than others under heavy daily wear.
A ring is the most personal piece - and the one that requires the most preparation. You need to know your exact size (which varies by finger, season, and time of day) and may need to have it adjusted by a jeweler. A pendant necklace or a gold ID bracelet are iconic alternatives that require no measurement beforehand.
750/1000 gold (18 karats) is valued by metal weight, which fluctuates with the gold market. For a simple piece - a fine gold chain, a slim bangle, small hoop earrings - entry prices typically range from 100 to 200 €. Jewelry set with precious stones or featuring more intricate craftsmanship is priced considerably higher.
Jewelry worn constantly - during sports, manual work, or sleep - needs a solid construction: a sturdy clasp, well-sized links, no pavé or fragile settings. Evening or occasional-wear jewelry can handle more architectural and delicate designs without risk of damage.
Yellow gold pairs with warm tones (beige, khaki, burgundy, brown); white gold with cool tones (grey, white, navy blue); rose gold works across both. In practice, all three colors work with the vast majority of outfits - the choice ultimately comes down to personal taste and harmony with the jewelry you already wear.
| I'm looking for… | Recommendation | Explore |
|---|---|---|
| An Everyday Understated Jewelry Piece | Fine Chain or 18K Yellow Gold Hoop Earrings | Necklaces · Earrings |
| A Maintenance-Free Piece | Yellow Gold or Rose Gold (no rhodium plating) | Bracelets · Gold Jewelry |
| A Stone-Set Jewelry Piece | 18K White Gold Pendant or Ring | Pendants · Rings |
| A Controlled Budget | Lightweight 18-Karat Gold Piece (slim bangle, chain…) | Gold Jewelry |
| A Statement Piece to Keep Forever | 18K Yellow Gold Ring or Pendant Necklace | Rings · Necklaces |
| A Safe, Timeless Gift | Yellow Gold Bangle or Chain Necklace | Bangles · Chains |
Solid gold (or "full gold") is an alloy whose entire thickness contains the proportion of gold indicated by the fineness - this is what a jewelry piece described as "750/1000 gold" means. Gold-plated jewelry has a base metal core (brass, zinc) covered by a thin surface layer of gold that wears off over time. Vermeil sits in between: a 925 sterling silver base coated with at least 10 microns of 750‰ gold - more refined than simple gold-plated jewelry, but distinct from solid gold.
Solid 18-karat gold is resistant to water and everyday cosmetics - it doesn't rust or oxidize. However, rhodium-plated white gold jewelry sees its plating wear faster with prolonged exposure to hot water and chemicals. Stone-set pieces deserve extra attention depending on the setting type and the nature of the stone.
In France, any solid gold jewelry piece weighing more than 3 grams legally sold by a professional must bear an official guarantee hallmark. For 750/1000 gold (18 karats), this is the eagle's head engraved on the piece - clasp, inside of a ring, shank. If absent, the invoice must explicitly state the fineness in thousandths (750‰) and the metal.
White gold aligns with cool, contemporary tones; yellow gold with warm, classic ones. In practice, both work with virtually any outfit. The choice comes down mostly to harmony with jewelry you already own - and how much upkeep you're willing to commit to: rhodium-plated white gold requires periodic refinishing.
The most reliable guide is contrast with your skin tone. Warm complexions - golden, olive, or deep - tend to shine with yellow or rose gold, which echoes the warm undertones of the skin. Cooler or very fair complexions often pair better with white gold or silver. That said, this is a starting point, not a rule: many people wear both depending on their outfit, and today's jewelry mixes metals freely. What matters most is harmony with what you already wear - watches, gold wedding rings, heirloom jewelry - rather than following any theoretical formula.
Whether you're looking for a discreet everyday chain, a statement ring, or a lasting gift, our collection covers all gold colors in 750‰ (18 karats) - yellow, white, rose - across every jewelry category. Free shipping in metropolitan France and Belgium, 4-installment payment at no extra cost, 30 days to change your mind.
→ Gold Guide · Guide to Precious Metals in Jewelry
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